THE BEST APARTMENT IN BUDAPEST!

After days of sifting through hotels and VRBO listings in search of the 'right' place to stay (I must admit, it's something I obsess about), it was time to make a decision. Unfamiliar with the city and its neighborhoods, this was becoming difficult. It's not that there were no good options for accommodations in Budapest - on the contrary. What was difficult was choosing just one! Then, there it was, the apartment! ... complete with white linen slipcovers, Ingo Maurer lighting and an amazing location. Something about it made me do a double-take. It was almost as though there was someone who knew me too well created this apartment to tempt me.

The dining area opens onto a high-ceilinged living room with French doors. On the right is the master bedroom (below). Notice the slipcovers of the same washable linen as those on the dining room chairs. And the flat-felled seams!

Best of all: the red refrigerator. When I saw this photo (below) I emailed the owners in wild excitement hoping the apartment was still available. This fridge is a work of art. It may sound ridiculous, but if the owners chose something like this, it signified that everything else in the apartment would be equally amazing. My hunch turned out to be true. Weeks later when we opened the refrigerator, we found a bottle of champagne and a bowl of Balaton cherries.

Even my son thought it was cool (below). And he doesn't think anything is cool.

It's up to you to decide if the stencil of the old lady cooking in the background is charming or bizarre. My vote is charming.

At the end of the day, the most amazing thing about this apartment was the subtle and beautiful way it related to its location and neighborhood. The owners, Sandro and Claudia Negri, are Swiss, which perhaps explains their meticulous attention to detail! After long hours of exploring the city, there was nothing better than relaxing on this balcony for an apero to observe life in the street below.

NEXT WEEK: more about the Egyetem Tér neighborhood.

[If you're interested in staying here, contact Sandro and Claudia at s.c.negri@bluewin.ch].

L'HEURE VERTE: WITNESSING A LOCAL RITUAL

While investigating a few of Budapest's ruin pubs one evening (see 30 July 2013 post), we happened to witness at Szimpla Kert the local ritual of burning sugar on a spoon to drip into absinthe prior to its consumption. An interesting and beautiful sight!

A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT: BUDAPEST AND THE DANUBE

There are so many layers to the urban fabric of Budapest that it is impossible to not to be intrigued and fall in love with this city. We did - within the first five minutes of arrival! It is at the same time gorgeous and gritty, modern and vintage, polished and patinaed, hilly and flat. Its complex history has resulted in a diversity which extends to language, food, architecture and music. "Cultures have been clashing in Budapest for a good many centuries, and usually not to Hungary’s benefit. But through several waves of occupation, tyranny and heroic revolt, it has become one of the few places on earth that have learned the trick of transforming that clash into music." (NYTimes)

THE COMPLEX URBAN FABRIC OF BUDAPEST ;) : HANDMADE TEXTILES

The city wasn't always a single metropolis. Prior to 1873, when Buda and Pest were combined, they were separate cities on either side of the Danube joined by the first permanent bridge, Széchenyi Lánchíd (the Chain Bridge). Amazingly, it was designed and shipped in sections from the UK to Hungary in the 1840's. The dignified and intricate framework of crisscrossed steel is studded with enormous bolts, embellished with stone lions, and happened to be located about 300 feet from 'our' apartment in a fascinating neighborhood of the 5th district. More about this area later...

On our first evening at dusk, as we strolled along the boulevard bordering the Pest riverfront, we stopped for a refreshing drink on the deck of a barge (top) to survey our surroundings. Later, our dinner at an outdoor wine bar, Borkonyha (Sas utca 3; borkonyha.hu), consisted of a Hungarian specialty - braised Mangalica hog cheeks with roasted baby carrots - wildly delicious! Not ready to call it a day, we boarded yet another barge to explore the illuminated architecture along the river, a sight most dramatic and lovely at night. The Hungarian Parliament building (bottom) was positively glowing. Completed in 1904, this spired, opulent, gold-leafed hall (88 lbs of gold) is a uniquely Hungarian combination of Gothic and Renaissance revival styles. It is stunning both outside and in, as we learned the next day on a tour of the interior.



NEXT: photos and details of our favorite apartment in Budapest!

Széchenyi Lánchíd (CHAIN BRIDGE)

HUNGARIAN PARLIAMENT

[PHOTOS BY KATHLEEN WILLS]

URBAN RUSTIC - DESIGN TRENDS IN BUDAPEST

Budapest, once in the shadow of Prague, may well be one of the most intriguing cities in Europe. After years of wishing to explore it firsthand, I recently had the chance to visit.

It was a trip back in time to a world of dark cathedrals, cast-iron suspension bridges, and crumbling mansions turned into indescribably fantastic open-air clubs (more on that later). Overwhelmingly, there was evidence of the confluence of cultures and influences that formed the city's aesthetic sensibility – it was cutting-edge hip and old-world royal at the same time; illuminated gold spires of Parliment reflecting in the fast-moving dark waters of the Danube. Other aspects were rougher around the edges, bringing to mind the East Village of the eighties. 

SZIMPLA KERT

Budapest was spared much of the bombing that devastated other Axis countries like Germany, and the gorgeous nineteenth-century architecture that dominates the city was frozen by the Iron Curtain. Gradually, as repression lifted, a vibrant, multicultural city emerged against this backdrop. Today Budapest exudes what could be called an 'urban rustic' aesthetic. 

One example is the emergence of 'ruin pubs,' built into the rubble of abandoned buildings. The first to become established was Szimpla Kert (above). Inside, the walls are covered with graffiti carved deeply into the plaster. Furniture is an eclectic mix of flea market finds and lighting is, well, let's just say it's doubtful that it  meets code! Cast-iron spiral staircases weave upward through a network of catwalks and awnings, surrounding an enormous interior courtyard filled with tables of people drinking, among other things, flaming absinthe! whilst being misted from above to ward off the heat (not caring that water and electricity aren't always a good mix).

At night, locals gather in outdoor parks to share drinks and play music. At a large park in the center of Pest, a recessed pond was surrounded by shelters constructed of every possible material, shipping pallets in one case (above) serving margaritas and Belgian frites. 

Next week: more on the architecture and urban fabric of this incredible city.

PARIS 10. FRENCH MAYONNAISE

FRENCH MAYONNAISE

There is something subtly unique and extremely appealing about an authentic French mayonnaise. It tastes of lemon and fine mustard without being overpowering. A very common commercial brand, MAILLE, is sold everywhere in France but is almost impossible to come by in the States. Their superb mustard, "Dijon Originale" is easily found – just not the mayonnaise. It made our day when we discovered that the equivalent is very simple to duplicate in about fifteen minutes, as demonstrated by our Parisian friend, Bastien, in this video: how to make an authentic french mayonnaise

This delicious version requires only one cup of vegetable oil (NEver olive oil!), an egg, salt and a small amount of a good french mustard (such as Delouis Fils - Strong Mustard, or Maille Dijon Originale). An immersion blender is very helpful in blending the ingredients. Note: important to refrigerate immediately and use within a day or two due to the inclusion of the egg. Enjoy on a baguette with a few thin slices of mild radish and brie!

PARIS 9.

From the website of Lycée Simon Weil.

As someone who gravitates toward cleanliness and order, it's hard for me to say exactly why I find this image so compelling. It's especially ironic when the subject matter is much like the scene I face nightly with exasperation – yet I'm still inexorably drawn to it. I love it for its colorful disheveledness and for the fact that it was found on the website of a high school in Paris… leave it to the French!

PARIS 8.

PREFERRED MODE OF TRANSPORTATION 

HEADING HOME FROM THE MARKET ON NARROW STREETS

CRITICAL SAFETY GEAR - YAKKAY HELMET!

One of the most surprising revelations about Paris transportation, is that a bicycle makes all the difference! It is efficiency, exercise, and enjoyment all at once. The Velib bicycle rental system, though I encountered a few occasional glitches (stories for another day), is the best thing since unsliced baguettes. Stations located throughout the city make it possible to jump on a bike, ride to another station, and leave the bike while strolling through Place de Vosges or getting groceries. When finished, walk to the nearest location, (usually less than three blocks away), throw your picnic supplies in the basket and pick up another to ride home. Total cost per year? about $45.00!(That is, if you keep each jaunt to under 30 minutes - usually easily done.)
Bike-sharing systems such as Velib in Paris exist in major cities worldwide and 2012 is expected to see much expansion in North America. Good news for sustainable transportation!

PARIS 7.

TROIS MAISONS: 3eme

VIEW FROM ABOVE RUE DES FRANCS BOURGEOIS

Paris is a big city comprised of what often feels like a collection of small villages. Neighborhoods abound with narrow passageways, colliding gables, warm light spilling out of thousands of windows across the street and far into the distance. Observing everyday life from above is a compelling experience. If only it could also be an occupation…

Happy 2012

OUR HAPPY + HEALTHY NEW YEAR 2012 WISH CARD AND PREVIEW OF PHOTOS TO COME

PARIS 6: HANDEL-HALVORSEN PASSACAGLIA

SAINTE-CHAPELLE AT NIGHT

'ARCHITECTURE IS FROZEN MUSIC' - GOETHE

The cathedral of Sainte-Chapelle in Paris is arguably one of the world's greatest musical venues. It is also one of the oldest, most compelling and most intimate settings in which to hear and see a performance. We had the good fortune to experience a recent performance of the Handel-Halvorsen Passacaglia in the sanctuary itself. While the video is brief and imperfect, I hope it will inspire you to listen to other recordings of this magnificent piece.

Click here to see video.

PARIS 5.

E.DEHILLERIN: utensiles de cuisine, 1er

PAPER CLOTHING (DISPLAY ONLY!) 4eme

LES POMPIERS AT WORK

PARIS 4.

MORNING LIGHT - rue des Francs-Bourgeois

COURTYARD - rue de Sevigne

AFTERNOON DRAWING SESSION - RADISHES

BALCONY APERITIF

WARM LIGHT - TIMBERED CEILING  - rue de Rosiers

PARIS 3.

ENTRéE DES FOURNISSEURS: 4eme.  

COURTYARD BEHIND PLACE DE VOSGES

TYPICAL SCENE ACROSS THE RUE

PARIS: 2.

FLOWER SHOP RUE DES ARCHIVES 4eme

AGNES b. RUE DU MARSEILLE 10eme

BREAKFAST CHEZ MOI 4eme

PAIN A LA FARINE DE MEULE 10eme: BEST BOULANGERIE

PARIS: 1.

PHOTOS: KATHLEEN WILLS

I awoke this morning to the liberating sound of seagulls. For a long moment, in my travel induced state, I was confused. At home, it was a familiar wake up call, yet I was quite sure I was no longer in close proximity to Lake Michigan. Eyes still closed, a subtle aroma wafting through the shuttered windows from somewhere across the white stuccoed, metal-roofed courtyard. Fresh air...bread...Eyes wide open now, low light filtering through the ornate iron balcony, strong geometric shadows on the adjacent wall...the chorus of church bells. All this brought me fully to my senses. Paris! We'd made it.

I could go on (and will, to be sure), expounding on the reasons why this is a place worth adoration, why I am ecstatic that we are able to finally realize the dream of spending a significant amount of time here, but at the moment, there are croissants and coffee to be had!